How Bordeaux wine estates price their bottles
Research in economics has unravelled the workings of the complex market for Bordeaux wines, in which perceived quality, historical reputation and critical reviews are intertwined. The question of how bottles are priced is all the more relevant amid a crisis for the Bordeaux industry, which is facing the threat of higher US tariffs on EU exports.
Reputation, ranking, vintage and climate
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To assess the relationship between the quality and price of Bordeaux wines, Jean-Marie Cardebat and I applied the “hedonic” method. The analysis links price to the observable characteristics of a wine: its ranking, vintage, designation of origin, alcohol content, flavour, etc.
The results are striking: the reputation of the wine estate and its official ranking, in particular that of 1855, are more powerful factors in explaining price than taste and sensory characteristics. In other words, a ranked wine, because of the prestige of its label, sells for significantly more than an unranked wine of equivalent taste and sensory appeal.
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The economist Orley Ashenfelter has shown that the weather conditions of a vintage – temperature, sunshine, rainfall – are predictors of its quality and therefore its price. A simple model, based solely on climatic data.
Robert Parker and the golden age of experts
For more than 30 years, the critic Robert Parker stirred up the Bordeaux wine market. His famous scores out of 100, published in The Wine Advocate, made and broke the value of wines. The economist Robert H. Ashton measured the scores’ impact: an extra point could boost a price by 10-20%.
Parker was the originator of a tribe of “gurus”, whose scores structured the entire early season for wines. The estates adjusted prices according to their assessments, and wine buyers followed suit, convinced of the accuracy of the scores.
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Fragmented influence
The Bordeaux wine landscape has changed since Parker’s retirement in 2019. The critics are still around but their influence has fragmented. No one has taken over Parker’s leadership. Consensus is now less clear and rating discrepancies are more frequent.
An even deeper turning point is evident when we compare the impact of expert and consumer ratings – notably from the Vivino platform – on the price of French red wines.
The result is clear: in the majority of cases, the scores of amateurs surpass those of professionals when it comes to explaining price differences. The market has therefore moved from a “guru” logic to a “geek” logic, in which the collective intelligence of connected consumers now carries as much weight, if not more, than expert opinions.
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‘Bordeaux bashing’
During the “primeurs” or early harvest campaign, the most prestigious Bordeaux wines are offered 18 months before bottling, often at a price that is supposed to be lower than the future market price. It’s a great opportunity for a bargain. Philippe Masset’s research shows that most wine estates overestimate the price of early harvest wines.
For example, for the 2021 vintage, over 80% of the wines analysed were priced above their “fair value” as estimated by an econometric model. The more a wine is overpriced on its release, the worse it performs on the secondary market. This discrepancy between asking price and perceived value feeds what is known as “Bordeaux bashing”. There is disaffection with these wines that are considered too expensive, too complex, too austere and totally out of step with today’s expectations – young people’s in particular.
A changing market
While the price of Bordeaux wine is still based on its quality, origin, weather and ranking, it also depends on criticism not just by experts, but by consumers. This shift is redefining the balance of power in the world of wine.
Reputation still pays, but prestige is no longer enough. Nonelite wine consumers are gradually taking over, gaining a new form of power over prices. If the Bordeaux market wants to emerge from crisis and reclaim its place, it will undoubtedly have to rethink the way its prices are set and perceived.
Jean-Marc Figuet has received public funding for his research.
Auteur : Jean-Marc Figuet, Professeur d’économie, Université de Bordeaux
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